Tomatoes are always widely popular due to their nutritional value. However, along the tomato growing stages, you may face a series of challenges. From tomato fungus to physiological disorders, various diseases can impact the health and productivity of your plants.
If you’re engaged in tomato cultivation, you should learn the common tomato diseases. In this guide, we’ll explore 10+ common tomato plant diseases and explain how to identify and treat these diseases. With tomato disease images, you’ll know what infected tomatoes look like. Whether you are a seasoned gardener or a novice grower, this can help you protect your tomato plants and ensure a bountiful harvest.
Table of Contents
How to Identify Common Tomato Plant Diseases?
When your beloved tomatoes are infected, they will demonstrate many symptoms. Common symptoms include spots on leaves, blotches on fruits, wilting, and discoloration. To identify tomato diseases, you should examine the plant for these symptoms.
You can use a Microscope Magnifier with LED UV lights to better identify the tomato diseases. With a steady hand and the lighting, you can capture clear and high-quality tomato disease images. Based on these tomato plant disease pictures, you can identify tomato diseases and treat them accordingly.
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- Clear Trichomes: The plant is still immature and hasn’t reached its full potential or size.
- Cloudy White Trichomes: The plant has reached its peak vitality and is at its most potent.
- Amber Trichomes: As the plant continues to mature, the trichomes turn amber (yellow).
- Spider Farmer Trichome Magnifier: Many growers already have smartphones with advanced cameras. With good lighting and a steady hand, you can easily capture clear, high-quality trichome photos, allowing you to track the plant's progress and revisit them anytime.
- Handheld Magnifiers: These don't provide enough magnification for a clear view.
- Jeweler's Magnifiers: Affordable, but they have a small viewing window.
10+ Common Tomato Diseases Worth Your Attention
In this part, we’ll list 10+ common tomato plant diseases that are worth your attention. By learning the symptoms and comparing the tomato disease images, you can identify what tomato diseases your plants are suffering from and find the solutions accordingly.
Early Blight
Early blight is a common fungal disease affecting tomatoes. Usually, it’s caused by the fungus Alternaria solani. Typically, it appears as small, dark spots on the leaves, which enlarge and develop concentric rings, resembling a target. These spots often start on the lower leaves and progress upward. Affected leaves turn yellow, wither, and drop off, leading to defoliation and reduced photosynthesis.
Early blight can also cause dark, sunken lesions on the stems and fruit. The fungus thrives in warm, humid conditions and spreads through splashing water and wind. To manage early blight, it is crucial to practice good sanitation by removing infected plant debris, rotating crops, and avoiding overhead watering.
Tomato Diseases Images - Early Blight
How to Identify Early Blight?
- Leaf Spots: Early blight starts with small, dark brown or black spots on the older, lower leaves near the ground. As the spots grow, they often develop concentric rings, giving them a target-like appearance.
- Yellowing and Defoliation: Infected leaves typically turn yellow and may eventually drop off. This defoliation usually progresses from the bottom of the plant upwards.
- Stem and Fruit Lesions: In addition to leaf spots, early blight can also cause dark, sunken lesions on stems and fruits.
How to Treat Early Blight?
1. Remove and destroy any infected leaves to prevent the spread of the disease.
2. Improve air circulation by spacing plants properly or setting up a ventilation system.
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- Mulching around the base of the plant with straw or wood chips can also prevent spores from splashing up onto the leaves.
- For organic treatments, you can apply copper-based fungicides or neem oil. If necessary, consider using chemical fungicides to control the disease.
Late Blight
Late blight is a devastating fungal disease affecting tomatoes and potatoes. It’s caused by the pathogen Phytophthora infestans. It thrives in cool, wet conditions and spreads rapidly through wind and water.
Symptoms include large, irregular, water-soaked lesions on leaves and stems, which quickly turn brown and necrotic. The underside of the leaves may develop a white, fuzzy growth, especially in humid conditions. On fruits, late blight causes large, dark, greasy spots that can lead to rot.
Tomato Diseases Images - Late Blight
How to Identify Late Blight?
- Leaf Spots: Initial symptoms include pale green to brown spots on the upper surfaces of leaves. These spots can rapidly enlarge and may have a water-soaked appearance. In moist conditions, a downy white growth can develop on the undersides of the leaves near the margins of the spots.
- Stem Lesions: Brown to almost black lesions can appear on petioles and stems. Portions of the plant beyond these lesions may dry up and collapse.
- Fruit Infection: Greenish brown, greasy spots can appear on green or ripe fruit. These spots can enlarge and may develop a white downy growth in moist weather. Secondary pathogens can also invade, causing soft rot.
- Rapid Defoliation: The disease can spread quickly, leading to extensive defoliation within 14 days.
How to Treat Late Blight?
- If you find late blight, remove and destroy infected plants to prevent the spread of the disease. Avoid composting diseased plants.
- Apply fungicides at the first sign of infection. For conventional growers, products containing chlorothalonil or mancozeb are effective. Organic growers can use fixed copper products. Rotate fungicide groups and/or tank mix fungicides to avoid generating fungicide-resistant strains.
- Space plants widely within the row to facilitate air movement and ensure faster drying of foliage.
Bacterial Speck and Spot
Tomato bacterial speck and spot are two distinct bacterial diseases caused by Pseudomonas syringae and Xanthomonas perforans, respectively. Bacterial speck appears as small, dark spots (less than ⅛ inch) on leaves, often surrounded by a yellow halo.
These spots can coalesce, causing leaves to turn yellow and drop off. Bacterial spot, on the other hand, produces larger, angular to irregular, dark brown or black spots on leaves, which can also affect stems and fruits. Both diseases thrive in warm, humid conditions and spread through splashing water and wind.
Tomato Diseases Images - Bacterial Speck and Spot
How to Identify Tomato Bacterial Speck and Spot?
Bacterial Speck
- Leaf Symptoms: Small, dark spots (about ⅛ inch in diameter) that often have a yellow halo around them. These spots are more prominent on the undersides of leaves.
- Fruit Symptoms: Tiny, slightly raised black spots that do not grow larger. These spots can have a dark green halo on unripe fruit.
Bacterial Spot
- Leaf Symptoms: Small (less than ⅛ inch), circular spots that may initially appear water-soaked. As they age, they turn brownish-red and may have a yellow halo. Severe infections can cause extensive leaf yellowing and defoliation.
- Fruit Symptoms: Small, raised, blister-like spots that grow to about ¼ inch in diameter. These spots become scabby and rough, often with a waxy white halo on ripe fruit.
How to Treat Tomato Bacterial Speck and Spot?
1. Start with high-quality, disease-free seeds or transplants from reputable sources. If you suspect your seeds are contaminated, consider treating them with hot water or a bleach solution.
2. Use a drip irrigation system or soaker hoses to keep leaves dry and prevent the spread of bacteria.
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Designed for hydroponics and plant growth, it accurately measures pH, EC, TDS, temperature, and salinity to ensure optimal nutrient uptake.
- 5 in 1 Accurate Measurements
Designed for hydroponics, it accurately measures pH, EC, TDS, temperature, and salinity to ensure optimal nutrient uptake.
- High-Sensitivity Sensor
With a high-sensitivity electrode sensor, it provides stable readings with ±0.05 pH accuracy, preventing nutrient issues and fertilizer waste.
- TDS & pH on one screen
TDS & pH on one screen—clear at a glance for faster, more precise nutrient management.
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Specially sealed for water, dust, and moisture resistance, ensuring reliable performance in hydroponics.
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Built-in 600mAh lithium battery supports 300 cycles, with up to 6 months standby on one charge.
Package Includes:
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- 6.86 Calibration Powder x 1
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Spider Farmer Drip Irrigation System for Plants with Water Pump, 8 Drip Emitters, and GGS AC10 Power Strip Kit for Smart Watering Control
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The GGS AC10 Power Strip has 10 independent outlets, each of which can be set with its own schedule and mode (such as temperature, humidity, and CO2 modes). By connecting the 25W water pump to the GGS AC10, you can automatically control the pump’s on/off cycle based on your set schedule, improving watering efficiency and preventing waste. The schedule includes two modes: Time Period Mode and Time Cycle Mode. Additionally, the GGS AC10 comes with a 3-in-1 soil sensor that monitors soil moisture, temperature, and EC (Electrical Conductivity), displaying this data on the app for real-time insights into your soil conditions. You can also connect fans, lights, humidifiers, and other devices to the GGS AC10 to fully manage your growing environment. -
25W Smart Water Pump:
The 25W water pump offers a maximum flow rate of 12L/min and includes a low water level sensor that automatically stops the pump when the water level is low, ensuring efficient water use and preventing waste. -
13-Gallon Large Capacity Water Tank:
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8-Outlet Drip Emitter:
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Water-Saving & Efficient Irrigation:
The automatic drip irrigation system delivers water directly to the plant roots, reducing water waste and evaporation. The system precisely controls water flow, promoting healthy plant growth, improving yields, and conserving water.
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3. Rotate crops to avoid planting tomatoes in the same area for at least three years. This helps reduce the bacterial population in the soil.
4. Remove and destroy infected plant debris at the end of the season. Clean stakes, cages, and tools with a 10% bleach solution or 70% alcohol to prevent the spread of bacteria.
Brown Spots on Tomato Leaves
Brown spots on tomato leaves can be caused by several diseases, most commonly early blight and septoria leaf spot. Early blight, caused by the fungus Alternaria solani, appears as small, dark brown spots with concentric rings, often on the lower leaves first. These spots may enlarge and cause the leaves to yellow and drop off.
Both diseases thrive in warm, humid conditions and spread through splashing water and wind. To manage these diseases, remove and destroy infected leaves, avoid overhead watering, ensure good air circulation, and rotate crops. Applying fungicides at the first sign of infection can also help control the spread.
Brown Spots on Tomato Leaves
How to Identify Brown Spots on Tomato Leaves
- Examine the Spots: Look closely at the size, shape, and color of the spots. Note if they have concentric rings (early blight) or are small and round with gray centers and dark margins (septoria leaf spot).
- Check the Distribution: Determine if the spots are primarily on the lower leaves (common for early blight and septoria leaf spot) or if they are spread throughout the plant.
- Inspect for Additional Symptoms: Look for yellowing or wilting of leaves, defoliation, or lesions on stems and fruits.
- Consider Environmental Factors: Note the weather conditions, as warm and humid environments favor fungal diseases. Also, check for overhead watering, which can spread spores.
- Consult Resources: Compare your observations with images and descriptions in gardening books, online resources, or consult with local agricultural extension services for accurate identification.
How to Treat Brown Spots on Tomato Leaves
1. Remove infected leaves to prevent the spread of the disease.
2. Avoid overhead watering to reduce humidity and prevent spores from splashing onto healthy leaves. Also, you can use a plant dehumidifier to decrease the level of humidity.
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3. Ensure good air circulation by spacing plants properly and pruning excess foliage.
4. Apply fungicides at the first sign of infection; for organic options, copper-based fungicides are effective, while conventional growers might use chlorothalonil or mancozeb.
5. Rotate crops to avoid planting tomatoes or related plants in the same area for at least two years.
White Spots on Tomato Leaves
White spots on tomato leaves are often indicative of powdery mildew, a fungal disease caused by species such as Oidium neolycopersici. This condition is characterized by white, powdery patches that appear on the upper surfaces of leaves, though they can also affect the undersides, stems, and occasionally fruits.
Powdery mildew thrives in warm, dry weather with cool, humid nights and spreads through wind and splashing water. Infected leaves may turn yellow and eventually die, reducing photosynthesis and potentially lowering fruit yield.
Tomato Diseases Images - White Spots on Tomato Leaves
How to Identify White Spots on Tomato Leaves
- Look for white, powdery patches on the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves. These spots may appear as a fine, white dusting or more dense patches.
- Check for Yellowing: Observe if the leaves are turning yellow around the white spots or if there is widespread yellowing. Yellowing is a common symptom as the disease progresses.
- Inspect the Stems: Powdery mildew can also affect stems, so check for white patches or a powdery coating on the stems and petioles.
- Consider Environmental Factors: Powdery mildew thrives in warm, dry days with cool, humid nights. Note if these conditions have been present, as they can favor the development of the disease.
- Look for Defoliation: Infected leaves may eventually die and fall off. Check for signs of defoliation, which can reduce photosynthesis and affect plant health.
- Compare with Images: Use gardening resources, such as books or online guides, to compare your observations with images and descriptions of powdery mildew on tomato leaves.
How to Treat White Spots on Tomato Leaves
- Remove infected leaves and prune the plant to improve air circulation.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep leaves dry.
- Apply fungicides such as sulfur or neem oil, which are effective organic treatments.
- Additionally, you can try homemade solutions like a milk spray (1 part milk to 9 parts water) or a baking soda solution (1 tablespoon baking soda per gallon of water with a few drops of liquid soap) to treat or prevent powdery mildew.
Yellow Spots on Tomato Leaves
Yellow spots on tomato leaves can indicate a variety of issues, including nutrient deficiencies, fungal diseases, or pest infestations. One common cause is a nitrogen deficiency, which typically results in uniform yellowing of older leaves.
However, yellow spots can also be a symptom of early blight, a fungal disease caused by Alternaria solani, which produces dark spots with concentric rings surrounded by a yellow halo. Additionally, pests like spider mites can cause yellow stippling on leaves due to their feeding.
Tomato Diseases Images - Yellow Spots on Tomato Leaves
How to Identify Yellow Spots on Tomato Leaves?
- Examine the Leaves: Look for small, irregular brown lesions with yellow halos that rapidly enlarge, often forming a “bull’s-eye” pattern. These are characteristic of early blight. If you see small, round tan or gray spots with dark margins on the lower leaves, this could be septoria leaf spot.
- Check for Nutrient Deficiencies: Yellowing leaves can also indicate nutrient deficiencies. For example, nitrogen deficiency often causes older leaves to turn yellow first. Potassium deficiency can cause the margins of new leaves to turn yellow, with the tissue between the veins dying and becoming leathery.
- Inspect for Pests: Tiny yellow spots or stippling on leaves could be a sign of spider mite infestation. Look for the mites on the undersides of the leaves.
- Consider Environmental Factors: Yellowing leaves can result from too much water, too little sunlight, or other environmental stresses. Ensure your plants are receiving adequate sunlight and proper watering.
- Monitor for Fungal and Bacterial Diseases: Yellowing leaves can also be a symptom of other fungal or bacterial diseases in the early stages, such as bacterial spot or leaf mold. Bacterial spot causes small, dark spots with yellow halos, while leaf mold results in yellow or pale green spots on the upper leaves.
How to Identify Yellow Spots on Tomato Leaves?
- Identify the underlying cause. If it's a nutrient deficiency, adjust your fertilization practices to ensure adequate nitrogen, potassium, or other necessary nutrients.
- For fungal diseases like early blight or septoria leaf spot, remove and destroy infected leaves, improve air circulation, and apply fungicides such as copper-based products or chlorothalonil.
- If it’s due to pests like spider mites, use insecticidal soap or neem oil to control the infestation.
- Additionally, ensure proper watering and sunlight exposure to reduce environmental stress on the plants.
Blossom End Rot
Tomato blossom end rot is a common physiological disorder, instead of a disease. It’s caused by a calcium deficiency in the developing fruit. It appears as a dark, sunken, leathery spot on the blossom end of the tomato, opposite the stem.
This condition often occurs during periods of rapid growth when the plant's calcium uptake is disrupted, typically due to inconsistent watering, high soil salinity, or root damage.
Tomato Diseases Images - Blossom End Rot
How to Identify Tomato Blossom End Rot?
- Dark, Sunken Spots: The most characteristic symptom is a dark, sunken, leathery spot on the blossom end of the tomato fruit, opposite the stem. These spots can start small and grow larger over time.
- Early Fruit Development: Blossom end rot typically appears on the first fruits of the season, especially during periods of rapid growth.
- Environmental Conditions: It is more common in plants that have experienced inconsistent watering, such as periods of drought followed by heavy rain or overwatering.
- Calcium Deficiency: The condition is often associated with a calcium deficiency in the developing fruit, which can be caused by uneven soil moisture, high soil salinity, or root damage.
- Fruit Size: The affected fruits may appear normal on the outside but have a dark, sunken area on the blossom end. The spot may be small initially, but it can expand to cover a significant portion of the fruit.
- No Mold or Fuzz: Unlike fungal or bacterial infections, blossom end rot does not produce mold or fuzzy growth on the affected area.
How to Treat Tomato Blossom End Rot?
1. Water deeply and regularly to ensure the soil remains consistently moist. Tomato plants need about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. You can use a deep watering system to get your tomatoes watered.
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NOTE:
Each DWC hydroponic bucket has a top diameter of 31cm.
-
For 2 buckets placed side by side, a tent width of at least 70cm is recommended.
-
For 4 buckets placed side by side, a tent width of at least 90cm is recommended.
Please ensure your grow tent is spacious enough for proper airflow and easy maintenance.
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Pre Order | Spider Farmer® 5-in-1 pH Hydroponic Meter Kit
Designed for hydroponics and plant growth, it accurately measures pH, EC, TDS, temperature, and salinity to ensure optimal nutrient uptake.
- 5 in 1 Accurate Measurements
Designed for hydroponics, it accurately measures pH, EC, TDS, temperature, and salinity to ensure optimal nutrient uptake.
- High-Sensitivity Sensor
With a high-sensitivity electrode sensor, it provides stable readings with ±0.05 pH accuracy, preventing nutrient issues and fertilizer waste.
- TDS & pH on one screen
TDS & pH on one screen—clear at a glance for faster, more precise nutrient management.
- Waterproof & Dustproof Design
Specially sealed for water, dust, and moisture resistance, ensuring reliable performance in hydroponics.
- Long-lasting Battery
Built-in 600mAh lithium battery supports 300 cycles, with up to 6 months standby on one charge.
Package Includes:
- 5-in-1 Hydroponic Tester x 1
- Type-C Cable (60cm) x 1
- 4.00 Calibration Powder x 1
- 6.86 Calibration Powder x 1
- 9.18 Calibration Powder x 1
- User Manual x 1 → Click here to view the online manual
Spider Farmer DWC Hydroponic Growing System with Top Drip Kit, 7-Gallon Deep Water Culture, 2-Bucket Setup, and GGS AC10 Power Strip Kit for Smart Watering Control
Spider Farmer DWC Hydroponic Growing System with Top Drip Kit, 7-Gallon Deep Water Culture, 2-Bucket Setup, and GGS AC5 Power Strip Kit for Smart Watering Control
Spider Farmer DWC Hydroponic Growing System with Top Drip Kit, 7-Gallon Deep Water Culture, 4-Bucket Setup, and GGS AC10 Power Strip Kit for Smart Watering Control
GGS AC10 Power Strip with Automatic Operation: The GGS AC10 Power Strip features 10 independent outlets, each of which can be set with its own schedule and mode (e.g., temperature, humidity, and CO2 modes). This means users can precisely control the operation times and modes of every device plugged into it (such as the air pump in the DWC system), ensuring that the system runs efficiently under optimal conditions for plant growth and health. What's even more important, the GGS AC10 is connected to a temperature and humidity light sensor, allowing you to plug in devices such as humidifiers, dehumidifiers, lights, clip fans, and inline fans. These devices will work together based on a unified temperature and humidity target, ensuring that the environmental conditions are always ideal for plant growth.
New Triangle Cover Design: The innovative triangle cover design allows for easy access to add water and measure liquid parameters, improving overall ease of use. With a 7-gallon capacity, it's made from high-quality, corrosion-resistant PP (polypropylene) material that is lightweight and durable.
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Powerful Air Pump: Able to output powerful air; 15W; maximum airflow: 28 L/min (adjustable). Used with air stone can effectively provide sufficient oxygen to plant roots, helping plant roots thrive and grow healthily
The AC10 Power Strip kits includes: 1 x GGS AC10 Power Strip 1 x Temperature, humidity, and light sensor 1 x 3-in-1 soil sensor 1 x 2-in-1 adapter (for connecting the lights to the controller) 7 x 2.5m RJ12 cables (for connecting devices) 2 x 0.25m RJ12 cables (for connecting between telephone line splitters) 3 x RJ12 telephone line splitters (for expanding device connections) 6 x Hook and loop straps (for organizing cables)
DWC Hydroponic System Kit Includes: 4pcs 7-gallon DWC Buckets, 4pcs triangular cover, 4pcs net cup, air pump, 4pcs air stone, 12M 4/6mm black tubing, dry clay pebbles, 4pcs water level tube, 4pcs drip irrigation ring, user manual and other accessories
Spider Farmer DWC Hydroponic Growing System with Top Drip Kit, 7-Gallon Deep Water Culture, 4-Bucket Setup, and GGS AC5 Power Strip Kit for Smart Watering Control
GGS AC5 Power Strip with Automatic Operation: The GGS AC5 Power Strip features 5 independent outlets, each of which can be set with its own schedule and mode (e.g., temperature, humidity, and CO2 modes). This means users can precisely control the operation times and modes of every device plugged into it (such as the air pump in the DWC system), ensuring that the system runs efficiently under optimal conditions for plant growth and health. What’s even more important, the GGS AC5 is connected to a temperature and humidity light sensor, allowing you to plug in devices such as humidifiers, dehumidifiers, lights, clip fans, and inline fans. These devices will work together based on a unified temperature and humidity target, ensuring that the environmental conditions are always ideal for plant growth.
New Triangle Cover Design: The innovative triangle cover design allows for easy access to add water and measure liquid parameters, improving overall ease of use. With a 7-gallon capacity, it’s made from high-quality, corrosion-resistant PP (polypropylene) material that is lightweight and durable.
Top Irrigation System: Equipped with an adjustable top drip irrigation ring, this system lets you finely adjust the irrigation speed. The 6-inch net cup is made from high-strength PP material, making it incredibly tough and able to provide strong support for healthy, lush plants.
Powerful Air Pump: Able to output powerful air; 15W; maximum airflow: 28 L/min (adjustable). Used with air stone can effectively provide sufficient oxygen to plant roots, helping plant roots thrive and grow healthily
The AC5 Power Strip kits includes: 1 x GGS AC5 Power Strip 1 x GGS Temperature, humidity, and light sensor 1 x 3-in-1 soil sensor 1 x GGS Light adapter (for connecting the lights to the GGS System) 4 x 2.5m RJ12 cables (for connecting devices) 2 x 0.25m RJ12 cables 1 x GGS Pro Adapter (for expanding device connections) 6 x hook and loop straps (for organizing cables)
DWC Hydroponic System Kit Includes: 4pcs 7-gallon DWC Buckets, 4pcs triangular cover, 4pcs net cup, air pump, 4pcs air stone, 12M 4/6mm black tubing, dry clay pebbles, 4pcs water level tube, 4pcs drip irrigation ring, user manual and other accessories
2. Adjust the soil pH to 6.3 to 6.8, as this range allows for optimal calcium uptake. If your soil pH is too low, consider adding lime to adjust it.
3. If a soil test indicates low calcium levels, mix in calcium sulfate (gypsum) or lime. Gypsum can be added to each planting hole before transplanting. Avoid over-liming, as this can raise soil pH too much.
4. Use fertilizers with moderate nitrogen levels and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers like urea. Opt for fertilizers high in phosphorus. Over-fertilization can lead to excessive leaf growth at the expense of fruit development.
Tomato Wilting Leaves
Tomato wilting leaves can be a sign of various issues, including insufficient water, overwatering, or disease. Wilting due to underwatering is often temporary and can be resolved by providing adequate water. Overwatering, on the other hand, can lead to root rot, causing leaves to wilt and turn yellow.
Diseases such as Fusarium wilt and Verticillium wilt are common causes of wilting in tomatoes. Fusarium wilt typically affects one side of the plant first, causing lower leaves to yellow and wilt, while verticillium wilt causes a more uniform yellowing and wilting of leaves. Both diseases are soil-borne and can be managed by using resistant varieties, rotating crops, and maintaining good soil health. Additionally, pests like nematodes can damage roots, leading to wilting.
Tomato Diseases Images - Tomato Wilting Leaves
How to Identify Tomato Wilting Leaves?
- Check Soil Moisture: Determine if the soil is too dry or too wet. Wilting can be a sign of underwatering, especially if the soil is dry and cracked. Overwatering can lead to root rot, causing leaves to wilt and turn yellow.
- Inspect for Diseases: Look for signs of fusarium wilt, which often starts with yellowing and wilting on one side of the plant, affecting lower leaves first. Verticillium wilt causes a more uniform yellowing and wilting of leaves, starting from the bottom and moving upwards. Both diseases can be identified by cutting open the stem and looking for discolored vascular tissue.
- Examine for Pests: Check for pests like nematodes, which can damage roots and cause wilting. Look for galls or knots on the roots. Aphids and other sucking insects can also cause wilting by feeding on plant sap.
- Consider Environmental Factors: Extreme temperatures, either too hot or too cold, can cause temporary wilting. Ensure your plants are not exposed to direct sunlight during the hottest parts of the day and are protected from frost.
- Monitor for Nutrient Deficiencies: Nutrient deficiencies, especially potassium, can cause wilting. Look for other symptoms like yellowing leaves or poor growth.
How to Treat Tomato Wilting Leaves?
- Determine the underlying cause. If underwatering is the issue, provide consistent and adequate water, ensuring the soil is moist but not waterlogged.
- For overwatering, reduce watering frequency and improve soil drainage to prevent root rot.
- If a disease like Fusarium or verticillium wilt is suspected, remove and destroy infected plants to prevent spread, and consider using resistant tomato varieties in future plantings.
- For pest-related wilting, such as nematodes, rotate crops and use nematode-resistant varieties.
Yellow Leaf Curl Virus
The Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus (TYLCV) is a significant threat to tomato crops. It belongs to the genus Begomovirus within the family Geminiviridae. It is primarily transmitted by whiteflies, specifically the species Bemisia tabaci. Infected tomato plants exhibit characteristic symptoms, including upward curling of leaves, yellowing of leaf margins, stunted growth, and reduced fruit yield. The virus can cause severe economic losses in tomato production areas worldwide.
Tomato Diseases Images - Yellow Leaf Curl Virus
How to Identify Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus?
- Leaf Yellowing and Curling: Young leaves may show interveinal and marginal yellowing, and leaves curl upwards or downwards.
- Leaf Crumpling and Size Reduction: Infected leaves often appear crumpled and smaller than normal.
- Stunted Growth and Flower/ Fruit Drop: Plants may be significantly shorter than healthy ones and may experience flower and fruit drop.
- Bushy Appearance: Infected plants may have a bushy appearance due to apical proliferation.
How to Treat Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus?
- Remove and destroy symptomatic plants to prevent the spread of the virus. Bag infected plants and allow them to desiccate for 1-2 days before disposal. Avoid composting infected plants.
- Use insecticides such as azadirachtin (Neem), pyrethrin, or insecticidal soap to manage whitefly populations. Rotate between different insecticides to prevent resistance. Insect-proof screens and sticky yellow traps can also be effective.
- Plant TYLCV-resistant or tolerant tomato varieties to reduce the impact of the virus on crop yield.
- Use reflective mulches, such as silver or aluminum-colored mulches, to repel whiteflies and reduce virus transmission.
- Implement crop rotation, proper plant spacing, and weed management to reduce the spread of whiteflies and the virus. Avoid planting new fields near older fields with infected plants.
- Introduce natural predators of whiteflies, such as parasitic wasps (Encarsia formosa, Eretmocerus eremicus), predatory beetles (Delphastus catalinae), and predatory mites (Amblyseius swirskii).
Fusarium Wilt
Fusarium wilt is a serious soil-borne fungal disease that affects tomatoes, caused by the fungus Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. Lycopersici. This disease typically manifests as yellowing and wilting of leaves, starting with the lower leaves and progressing upwards. Often, only one side of the plant is initially affected.
As the disease progresses, the leaves turn brown and die, and the plant may exhibit stunted growth. The fungus invades the plant's vascular system, blocking water and nutrient transport.
Tomato Diseases Images - Fusarium Wilt
How to Identify Tomato Fusarium Wilt?
- One-Sided Yellowing: Initial symptoms include yellowing of the lower leaves, often restricted to one side of the plant or one branch. This one-sided yellowing is a distinctive feature of Fusarium wilt.
- Wilting: Leaves will wilt, especially during the warmest part of the day, and may recover slightly at night in the early stages. As the disease progresses, the wilting becomes permanent.
- Browning of Vascular Tissue: If you cut open the stem near the base, you will see dark brown streaks in the vascular tissue, indicating that the fungus has blocked the plant's water-conducting pathways.
- Progressive Leaf Death: The yellowing and wilting will progress upwards from the lower leaves, eventually affecting the entire plant.
- Stunted Growth: Infected plants often exhibit stunted growth and produce fewer fruits.
- Healthy Roots Initially: In the early stages, the roots may appear healthy, but they will eventually rot as the disease progresses.
How to Treat Tomato Fusarium Wilt?
To treat tomato Fusarium wilt, focus on prevention and management, as there is no effective cure once plants are infected. Use resistant tomato varieties, practice crop rotation for at least three years, and maintain healthy soil. Infected plants should be removed and destroyed to prevent the spread of the fungus.
Verticillium Wilt
Tomato verticillium wilt is a soil-borne fungal disease caused by the fungus Verticillium dahliae. It affects a wide range of plants, including tomatoes, and is characterized by yellowing and wilting of leaves, starting from the bottom and moving upwards.
Unlike Fusarium wilt, Verticillium wilt often affects the entire plant rather than just one side. Infected plants may show stunted growth and reduced yields. The fungus invades the plant's vascular system, blocking water and nutrient transport.
Tomato Diseases Images - Verticillium Wilt
How to Identify Tomato Verticillium Wilt?
- Yellowing of Leaves: Initial symptoms include yellowing of the lower, older leaves, often in a V-shaped pattern that narrows from the leaf margin. Unlike fusarium wilt, the yellowing is usually uniform across the entire plant rather than restricted to one side.
- Wilting: Leaves will wilt, especially during the hottest part of the day, and may recover slightly at night in the early stages. As the disease progresses, the wilting becomes permanent.
- Leaf Drop: Infected leaves will eventually turn brown and drop off, leading to defoliation.
- Stunted Growth: The overall growth of the plant may be stunted, and fruit development will be poor.
- Vascular Discoloration: Cut open the stem near the base of the plant to look for light brown to cream-colored streaks in the vascular tissue. This discoloration is a key diagnostic feature of verticillium wilt.
- Cool Weather: The disease is favored by cool soil and air temperatures, typically between 68° to 75° F.
How to Treat Tomato Verticillium Wilt?
- The best approach is to use resistant tomato varieties. You can plant tomato varieties that are resistant to verticillium wilt. These varieties are often labeled with a "V" on the plant tags or seed packets. Examples include 'Jet Star', 'Celebrity', 'Cherry Grande', and 'Roma'.
- Rotate crops to avoid planting tomatoes or related plants (such as peppers and potatoes) in the same soil for at least three to four years. This helps reduce the fungal population in the soil.
- Improve soil health by adding organic matter, which can enhance drainage and reduce the risk of infection. Avoid planting in poorly drained areas.
- Remove and destroy infected plant material at the end of the season. Do not compost diseased plants. Clean stakes, cages, and other gardening tools to prevent the spread of the fungus.
Anthracnose
Tomato anthracnose is a fungal disease caused by a species of the fungus Colletotrichum, most commonly Colletotrichum coccodes. Primarily, it affects ripe and overripe tomatoes, causing small, sunken, water-soaked spots that enlarge and develop dark, concentric rings. These spots can become soft and mushy, leading to fruit rot. On leaves, anthracnose can cause small, circular spots with dark centers.
The disease thrives in warm, wet conditions and spreads through splashing water and infected plant debris. To manage anthracnose, it is important to harvest fruits promptly, avoid overhead watering, and remove and destroy infected plant material.
Tomato Diseases Images - Anthracnose
How to Identify Tomato Anthracnose?
On Fruits
- Circular, Sunken Lesions: Initially, small, circular, and sunken spots appear on ripe or overripe fruits. These spots are water-soaked and can enlarge over time.
- Concentric Rings: As the disease progresses, the lesions may develop concentric rings and become darker.
- Salmon-Colored Spores: Under humid conditions, the center of the lesions may produce salmon-colored spores.
On Leaves
- Small, Dark Spots: On older leaves, small, dark spots with yellow halos may appear.
- Leaf Yellowing and Defoliation: Infected leaves may turn yellow and drop off prematurely.
How to Treat Tomato Anthracnose?
- Rotate crops to avoid planting tomatoes or other solanaceous crops in the same spot more than once every 3 - 4 years.
- At the end of the season, remove and discard infected plant debris to prevent the fungus from overwintering.
- Mulch under plants to reduce soil splash and keep fruit from contacting the soil. Stake or cage plants to improve air circulation and keep fruit off the ground.
Tomato Pith Necrosis
Tomato pith necrosis is a bacterial disease caused by Pseudomonas corrugata and other Pseudomonas species, as well as Pectobacterium carotovorum. It affects the pith, or central portion, of tomato stems, turning the tissue from fleshy to mushy and discolored.
Symptoms first appear when the first fruit set is close to the mature green stage. Infected plants show yellowing and wilting of leaves, dark brown to black lesions on the stem, and profuse adventitious root formation along the stem. When the stem is cut open, the pith may appear hollow, discolored, or chambered. This disease thrives in high humidity, cool night temperatures, and high nitrogen conditions, which promote rapid plant growth.
Tomato Diseases Images - Tomato Pith Necrosis
How to Identify Tomato Pith Necrosis?
- Leaf Yellowing and Wilting: Initial symptoms often include yellowing (chlorosis) of young leaves and wilting of the upper portions of the plant. The lower leaves may also wilt.
- Stem Lesions: Dark brown to black lesions may form on the stem. These lesions can extend along the stem and may split the stem open.
- Adventitious Roots: Many adventitious roots (aerial roots) may form along the stem. These roots can be a sign of the disease, especially in conditions with high humidity.
- Hollow or Discolored Pith: When the stem is cut lengthwise, the pith (the central part of the stem) may appear hollow, discolored, or chambered. The discoloration is usually darkest at the base of the plant, but does not extend into the roots.
- Fruit Symptoms: In some cases, fruit may develop small, round black spots that eventually become surrounded by soft rot.
- Random Distribution: Affected plants are often scattered randomly in the field or greenhouse.
How to Treat Tomato Pith Necrosis?
- Reduce high humidity and improve air circulation to prevent the spread of the disease. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilization, especially early in the season, to reduce rapid growth that can make plants more susceptible. Apply systemic fungicides like thiophanate-methyl or chlorothalonil during the early stages of infection. If the disease is severe, remove and destroy infected plants to prevent further spread. Additionally, ensure that tomato stakes and other equipment are disinfected before reuse to avoid spreading the bacteria.
Mosaic Virus
Tomato Mosaic Virus (ToMV) is a plant pathogenic virus that belongs to the genus Tobamovirus. It infects a wide range of plants, including tomatoes, peppers, cucurbits, and other crops. The virus is highly persistent and can survive in seeds, soil, and plant debris for extended periods.
Symptoms vary depending on the host plant but often include mottling and mosaic patterns on leaves, stunted growth, and reduced yield. ToMV is transmitted mechanically through contact with infected plant material, tools, or hands, making it challenging to control in agricultural settings.
Tomato Diseases Images - Mosaic Virus
How to Identify Tomato Mosaic Virus?
- Leaf Symptoms: Initial symptoms often include yellowing (chlorosis) of young leaves and wilting of the upper portions of the plant. Lower leaves may also wilt.
- Stem Symptoms: Dark brown to black lesions or streaks may appear on the surface of the peduncles, leaf petioles, and stems. When the stem is cut lengthwise, the pith may appear discolored, hollow, or chambered. The discoloration is usually darkest at the base of the plant but does not extend into the roots.
- Adventitious Roots: Many adventitious roots may form along the stem.
- Fruit Symptoms: Fruit may develop small, round, black spots that eventually become surrounded by soft rot. However, fruit symptoms are rare.
- Plant Distribution: Affected plants are usually scattered randomly throughout the field or greenhouse.
How to Treat Tomato Mosaic Virus?
Since there are no chemical tomato disease treatments for Mosaic Virus, you should mainly focus on preventive measures and cultural practices. Key strategies include:
- Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilization, especially early in the season when night temperatures are cool.
- It’s also helpful to reduce humidity through proper ventilation, spacing plants adequately, and avoiding overhead irrigation can also help.
- If plants show symptoms, promptly remove and dispose of infected plants, including roots, to prevent the spread of the disease.
- Practicing crop rotation and ensuring good soil drainage can mitigate the risk of future outbreaks.
Conclusion
As you can see, most tomato growing issues and tomato plant diseases result from warm, humid conditions. Therefore, if you’re living in a humid environment, consider investing in a plant dehumidifier. Meanwhile, it's important to improve air circulation by using a ventilation system. Moreover, to avoid water damage like overhead watering, you can also take advantage of a deep watering system or a drip irrigation system.